Thursday, February 23, 2012

meet the Yahua

After parting with the baby sloth, we continued down a trail where all we could see was greenery.


The path is fraught with nothing but sanculos... the pests are so abundant that the locals even refer to the bugs by their English name: mosquitoes.

The end of the path was submerged in water.

This is where the rainboots come in handy! We forded a few feet of water and came to a sort of meeting house where people were castrating a pig. Poor guy... but we didn't stay long. Once Artemio procured two oars, we were off on another boat!

Okay, so this boat wasn't quite community property but the oars (and later, the motor) still were.

The next three photos show some trees with dark and light portions of the trunks. It turns out that during the rainy season, the rivers can rise a good two meters (hence the houses on stilts.) The dark portion of the trunks are the parts that get submerged when it floods. And in order to get marks that distinct, the river probably floods to the same height almost every year. When it comes to regularity, Jamie Lee Curtis and her Activia yogurt has nothing on these Amazon rivers!



The river winds down into another world for miles but we didn't have to travel far today...

Meet the Yahua, a friendly Amazonian tribe that shoots blowdarts and understands tourism very well. Do you see that little girl in front? She shamelessly pointed to my earrings (later another guest told me that she wanted me to give them to her) and asked for tips when I took a photo of my friend on the village grounds. Authentic, I suppose, but not the sort most people desire.

Still, visiting this tribe was pretty cool. The chief is the little man on the right. He speaks some Spanish and welcomed us to try our hands (or mouths) at blowdarts.

First the chief showed us how it was done...

... and easily landed two darts on the target.

My first two tries didn't go very far. But once I understood that a huge blowdart gun needs some huge wind, I blew quite forcefully and got my dart closer to the nose than the chief's!

So cool! But don't be fooled by the beautiful miniature blowdarts for sale as they are for decoration only. I have two such souvenirs sitting on a table of curios and I will always laugh at myself for thinking that the Yahua would sell real weapons to outsiders.

Anyways, motherly Pame was smitten with the baby...
She loved talking up the mother of the newborn, who in her early twenties is just one of the three wives of the chief. Here she is with her baby boy and hard-working young daughter.

The Yahua don't really live in the settlement we visited... not only is it not very private at all, it is too close and low to the water and would wash away with each flood. Instead, they live further into the jungle and find it easier to meet tourists halfway at the bank.

Ever eager to share, Pedro pointed out the fruits in the nearby trees...

These soft spiny pieces are not for eating; instead, the seeds inside are crushed to make the vibrant red pigment with which the Yahua men paint their faces. This plant also comes in yellow and green varieties and, as expected, produces yellow and green facepaint.

Since the Yahua's "business location" was so small, there wasn't too much to do after blowing darts and blowing money on knick-knacks. So we headed back to the lodge for lunch and more adventures.

On our way back to the lodge, we met the people of San Juan de H. at the point where the jungle trail sinks down into the river. They had gathered for a boat-launching party and it looked as though all the able-bodied young people had assembled to push the boat in. All fifteen of them.

when I go back to San Juan...

Once we landed at the lodge, it wasn't long before Pame and I put on rainboots and hit the trail with our guides Artemio and Pedro. Even though it didn't rain on our first day there, a good portion of the trail was covered in mud or submerged in river water. Don't refuse the rainboots, even though the 5 soles/day rental fee for a pair is not included in the package.


A friend joins us for the trail...

We passed a few real homes on en route to the Yahua...


Artemio and Pedro pointed out all of the fruit that grow in the jungle... mangoes...

plantains (unripe)

and ripe.

A family takes their laundry to the shore...

It may seem like this family owns the boat but in reality, they probably don't. Those who live in these Amazonian villages accept that boats are a necessity to everyone. Boats are docked in common places and oars and motors are either stored on board or under the home closes to the water. Now that's what I call community property.

It wasn't long before we came across the village of San Juan de Huanshaldo... or Hualshando... I'll never remember the name.


The soda and supply shop.

Yet another friendly companion!

All manner of vehicles and livestock hang out under houses, which are raised to accommodate the rising of the river.

Pame meets some local kids.

There were chickens and roosters all over the village! They're a relatively easy animal to care for, which is essential to a pueblo as small as San Juan de H.

San Juan de H. has just one road... On the right-hand side, from foreground to the back, is the village discotech, the village pub/movie theater, and the village school!

It was at the last house in the village that I met the new love of my life, baby sloth. Here, his entrepreneuring human takes him out for a ride.



Pedro showed us how easy it was to handle the sloth... see me cuddle el perezosito here!

Friday, February 10, 2012

boat ride

It's been a while since I told you about how we arrived to Iquitos on the eve of its 148th anniversary. We woke early in the morning to see the town getting ready for the celebration...

All the local chapters of the armed forces got together...





But Pame and I didn't stay for the party. We only woke up early because the tour agency wanted us on the way to the lodge bright and early! With our tour guide Artemio leading the way, we took a bumpy moto-taxi ride to Nanay and boarded the lodge's boat. It was the beginning of our overnight jungle adventure!
the market in Nanay
looking back from the dock
river life
Nanay marina
this dock is more steady than it looks
On our nice one-hour boat ride we saw quite a few sights along the river. Artemio pointed out houses on the opposite riverbank...

I always wondered where all the green was in Peru. The North (Trujillo and Chiclayo) are very dusty and have sparse natural vegetation at best. Cuzco lies in the mountains but isn't covered in greenery as much as red dirt. My memory of Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, is similar to Cuzco... I don't remember many trees but I remember graffiti, rain, and red earth. And Lima? It's too crowded to comfortably fit all the people inside, much less trees. But Iquitos and the Amazon! It's like all of the green was sucked out of everywhere else in Peru and dumped into the Loreto region. Coming to Iquitos was literally, a breath of fresh air.

Guide Artemio also explained the brown color of the river (due to the waste product of all of the plants underneath) and showed us the mixing of the Momon and Nanay Rivers, both tributaries to the more famous Amazon...

We passed by a small town (ended up visiting this place later.)

We also saw some commercial activity... I think after rubber and tourism, oil is a pretty big deal up here. Unfortunately it also leads to a fair bit of pollution in Iquitos.

But most of the views were just trees and water...



As we neared the lodge, we came into close contact with a boat similar to ours. The lodge is just a short walk to the village of San Juan de Huanshaldo (I never quite got the name right) and the people there use these boats to get supplies from Iquitos. Smaller boats are used to navigate the riverlets... you'll see.

If you're in the jungle, forget the motorbikes. You need a boat.